Subte

Living in Buenos Aires has required me to take the Subte often to get from 1 neighborhood to the next.  The Subte is the name of the subway system in the city, and each time I ride on it, I experience something different.  It is unlike any other transport system that I have been on, although it certainly has some things in common with other subways. 

 

You will never ride the train in boredom.  For example, entertainers, which include musicians, actors, singers, rappers, and poets, walk into each section of the train, performing for a couple of stops.  In particular, I have seen guitars, accordions, violins, trumpets, saxophones, bongos, and a huge pole which makes some deep electronic/futuristic sound- kinda scary.  People play a range of music from jazz to blues to Tango. 

In addition to entertainers, many people pass through the car and hand out either candy or some cheap product, such as a subte map, clips, gum, markers, or even socks.  They let you look at the item and if you wish to buy the thing, you give them the money as the vendors come back.  Otherwise, you simply return the item.  The vendors usually perform their work without any communication, although I have seen one person shake every potential customer’s hand upon handing out his good (perhaps a way for us to feel for him and thus feel inclined to buy). 

These vendors and entertainers range in age.  While most people look to be young adults, I have seen a few senior citizens and even kids as young as 4 passing through to try and sell their items, looking to make any money they can for their families.

Sometimes, however, entertainment on the Subte remains impossible: that is when the trains are so stuffed that it’s hard to breathe let alone play an instrument.  In some instances,  I have to wait for about 2-3 trains to pass until enough room exists on the train to board.   During the moments when I actually succeed in getting onto the train, as I’m stuck and smothered b/w 20 other people, it feels like 100 degrees, and I think about the descriptions of the huge pileups in football that ensue as reflected in different articles I have read.  So much goes on down in those piles, as people will do anything just to end up with the ball.  Nevertheless, I myself have not experienced testicle groping, biting, or anything else that could be considered sexual harassment in these train pileups but I’m sure it happens.  In fact, my friend recently had his computer stolen from him during a busy train ride, and it was simply too crowded for people to realize what was going on.  As a result, I usually keep my hands in my pockets, ensuring that my wallet and phone remain inside.

Yes, the Subte can be a dangerous place, but it also has a historic side to it as well: Some of the original cars -from the early 1900’s- on the A Line are still in use.  One must open and close the doors manually in order for the train to continue on its way- pretty old school.  

My favorite part about the experience is that it only costs 1.10 pesos, about 25 cents, to ride, so it feels like nothing when compared to the subway systems in the US.

For now, I’ve got nothing else to say about the Subte, so I’m going to sign off. 

1 week until I’m back in the US

Ariel